Distinctive features of adenium and its origin, recommendations for care, advice regarding independent reproduction, problems, types. Adenium belongs to the Apocynaceae family, which includes many arboreal succulents (plants that accumulate water in their parts) and shrubs. The homeland of this exotic is the tropical territories of the African continent, it can be found from Senegal to Sudan and Kenya, as well as on the Arabian Peninsula.
For the first time, scientists tried to systematize all varieties of adenium back in the 18th century, in the second half of it. To date, there are several versions on this issue: as the recognition of the genus of adenium monotypic to proposals for the allocation of some regional forms as independent species. Ultimately, it is generally accepted that 5 species of flora are included in the genus Adenium, and all the rest are considered subspecies.
The name of this plant in many languages literally means - "desert rose" or "rose of the desert", and there are also variants - "stars of Sabinia" and "impala lily" or "impala rose".
Adenium is a shrub or tree with a very slow growth rate. Its trunk is fleshy with a thickening at the base. This part is called caudex and can be found mostly below the soil surface.
The stem of the adenium has multiple branching. On the shoots there are small leaf blades with a glossy or velvety surface. The vertex can be with a pointed or blunt edge.
But the plant's greatest pride is its large flowers, the color of which ranges from snow-white to dark crimson, and thanks to them adenium has gained its popularity. The pharynx of a flower in most cases has a paler color.
Carefully! When the branches of the "desert rose" are cut off, poisonous sap is released immediately. Therefore, after a transplant or adenium multiplication surgery has been performed, you must immediately wash your hands. This must be remembered if there are pets or small children in the house.
Growing adenium at home, care
- Lighting and location of the flower. Since the "impala rose" grows in natural conditions on the territory of Africa, then a window with maximum illumination - a southern location - is suitable for it. That is, it is preferable to put the pot on windows where there is bright direct sunlight, shading is not required. However, with the arrival of the autumn-winter period, the duration of daylight hours will not be enough for the adenium and it will be necessary to highlight the plant with special phytolamps. Also, young bushes need to be accustomed to sunlight gradually after winter. If, under the bright direct rays of the sun, the bush stays up to 5 hours, a sunburn may occur, since the trunk of young "desert roses" is very sensitive. Therefore, it is good to place a young specimen in the shade of large succulents.
- Content temperature. The plant is naturally distinguished by its thermophilicity, but it is most comfortable to withstand the thermometer readings in the range of 25-30 degrees. With the arrival of spring heat, you can take the bush to fresh air, but make sure that the adenium is protected from the effects of precipitation, since waterlogged soil can adversely affect its well-being. As soon as the total daily temperature begins to fall and daylight hours decrease, the plant slows down its growth and goes into dormancy. At this time, the leaf blades begin to turn yellow in adenium and subsequently fly around. In the autumn-winter period, heat indicators should not go beyond 12-15 degrees. In no case should the root system be overcooled, so in winter it is necessary to put the pot on a piece of polystyrene and, in severe frosts, place the screen in front of the window glass.
- Watering. The plant is very sensitive to excess moisture, so it is important to keep track of the potting medium so that it is not too flooded with water. The soil in the flowerpot should dry out between waterings. Water for humidification should only be at room temperature. In the period from autumn to spring, watering is limited, allowing the earth to dry out, especially if the content is at a temperature of 16–20 degrees, but with a cool "wintering" it will be necessary to practically stop moisture, or very rarely water if it is a young adenium. As soon as the plant shows signs of growth, that is, it comes out of dormancy, it is necessary to moisten the soil for the first time very carefully and with a small amount of liquid. If the substrate was in a dry state during the rest period, then it is not necessary to water it immediately, but only after 3-4 weeks, from the moment the growth of the buds was noticed and the activation of the growing season begins.
- Humidity when caring for adenium. During the period of vegetative activation, the plant must be sprayed from a fine-dispersion spray bottle. When the buds appear and the flowers open, it is important to ensure that drops of moisture do not fall on them, as this will lead to the loss of their decorative appearance.
- Fertilizer. From the beginning of spring, as soon as growth buds appear until the beginning of autumn, it is necessary to make top dressing for the "desert rose". Fertilizers are used for indoor plants, which are diluted to a concentration of 1-2%.
- Features when growing adenium. With the arrival of spring days, if necessary, it is necessary to prune the "impala rose". This operation cannot be carried out at another time, only when the plant has just started to grow. If there is a desire to get an adenium in the form of a standard tree (with one single stem), then you will need to cut off the branches and the stem by 1/3 of their height. But if you want to have a beautiful bush, then pruning is carried out even lower. When the plant is still young, the tops of the shoots are pinched to it for branching.
- Repotting and selection of soil and pot. The procedure for changing the container in which the adenium and the substrate grows must be carried out in the spring. If the "desert rose" is still young, then this is repeated annually, and as soon as the specimen grows up, then as needed, when the roots completely absorb the soil allocated to it.
The transplant pot is selected for adult adeniums, wide and not deep, and it is desirable that its color be light, in this case it will heat up least of all. A drainage layer (expanded clay, pebbles or broken shards) is poured into the bottom of the pot, and small holes are made in the very bottom to drain excess water. It is recommended to transplant by the transshipment method, this is the most gentle method, with it, the earthen lump does not collapse, and the roots will not be injured. After the transplant, the substrate in the pot is not immediately moistened, but the damaged roots are allowed to dry out, somewhere within 5-6 days.
The soil for planting adenium is selected loose, with good air permeability, the acidity of which is close to neutral. The soil mixture is compiled on the basis of the top sod land, leaf substrate and river coarse sand (all parts of the constituents are equal). If the plant is old, then more sod soil is added and it is recommended to mix crushed brick with it.
Recommendations for self-propagation of adenium
You can get a new bush of the "desert rose" using the methods of grafting, planting seeds, or grafting a twig onto an oleander.
In the case of seed reproduction (if the seeds have been stored for some time, then their germination will drop). Sowing should be carried out in February-March, but before planting in the substrate, they are soaked for 30-40 minutes in a light solution of potassium permanganate, or in a systemic or biological fungicide preparation. Then a solution of zircon is diluted in water, and the seeds are moved there for several hours. Soil for sowing seeds is based on vermiculite, river sand and crushed charcoal. The substrate must be slightly moistened and seeds must be poured onto it, without covering them, but only slightly dusting them with soil. The container should be placed in a place with a heat reading of 32-35 degrees. You can cover the container with a piece of glass.
The first shoots will appear in almost a week. If the temperature is in the range of 21-25 degrees, the time for pecking the seeds will increase, and this can lead to their rotting. After the seedlings have sprout, fluorescent lighting must be applied. Next, you will need to maintain high levels of humidity and heat, at least 18 degrees and regularly ventilate the seedlings and moisten the soil. As soon as the first pair of true leaves appears on a young sprout of adenium, then gradually it is necessary to lengthen the airing time in order to accustom the plant to conditions of constant maintenance. As soon as the seedling has 4 leaves, then a dive is carried out into pots with a substrate that is suitable for adult specimens.
When adenium is propagated using apical cuttings, this operation is performed in the spring or summer months, but there is a difficulty here - the cuttings easily begin to rot. The length of the cutting should not be within 10-15 cm. The cut should be powdered with charcoal or activated charcoal crushed into powder and dried a little. Then the twigs are planted in perlite, crushed expanded clay or a mixture of sand with crushed charcoal. It is recommended to sprinkle clean sand around the root collar or lay pieces of charcoal - this will prevent the base of the stem from rotting. For successful rooting, you will need to keep warm within 25-30 degrees and the plants are placed in a place with good lighting, but without direct sunlight. It is important to ensure that the soil is not overly moist, as this can lead to rotting. Cuttings take root under favorable conditions in about a month.
You can propagate adenium using air layers. This will require in May or early June, when there is an active growing season, a shallow cut in a circle is made on a branch with a thickness of at least 2 cm in diameter using a sharpened knife. It is dried a little, and then it is treated with any rooting stimulant. This place is then wrapped in sphagnum moss and an opaque plastic bag, this whole structure is fixed with a harsh thread, wire or fishing line. Sphagnum will need to be moistened periodically. The roots should appear within a month. After this, the layers must be separated from the mother bush and planted in a soil suitable for adenium.
Typically, a plant that has been grown from a stem will not have the thickening underneath of the stems - caudex, which is typical of the "desert rose".
Grafting is carried out on another adult adenium or oleander is used for this. If grafted onto the last bush, then such a specimen will be more hardy and flourish better. It is necessary to make oblique cuts on the scion and on the rootstock. Then they are combined and fixed with an elastic tape or adhesive plaster (you can use a special glue for grafting). In this case, the temperature must be maintained within the range of 30-35 degrees. The lighting is selected intense and sufficiently high humidity. It is important that direct sunlight does not fall on the grafted plant and make sure that the shoots are removed from the rootstock, they are also called "tops".
Difficulties in cultivating adenium
If the leaf plates of the plant began to turn yellow and fall off, then there was a sharp change in the conditions of detention - the action of drafts or hypothermia. Also, with the arrival of autumn, with a decrease in the duration of daylight hours and temperature, the plant prepares for a dormant period.
But sometimes similar symptoms are accompanied by decay of caudex (formation at the base of the trunk). This caused a strong waterlogging of the soil at temperatures below 20 degrees. To check this version, you need to click on the caudex at the substrate level, if it is soft, then the “desert rose” is rotting.
To heal adenium, an increase in the temperature of the root system will be required. In winter, place the pot with the plant on a central heating battery and then humidify it with warm water only.
A spider mite can cause trouble for the "desert rose". The pest pierces the leaf plate with its proboscis and sucks out the cell sap. In this case, the leaves begin to turn yellow, deform and fly around. And you can also see a thin cobweb that will cover branches, internodes and leaves. You will need to carry out the treatment with soap (based on mixed laundry soap and water), oil (several camellas of rosemary essential oil diluted in water) or alcohol solution (calendula tincture). The drug is applied to a cotton swab and shoots and leaves are wiped with it. After that, you can also treat the bush with insecticidal preparations.
Types of adenium
- Adenium obesum or obesum adenium (Adenium obesum). It is sometimes called obese nerum. The plant has a low growth rate and a one-period stem. Has a fork at the top. Height rarely exceeds one and a half meters, and meters across. The stem is grayish-brown in color, has a fleshy thickening in the lower part, acquires a bottle shape. At the very tops of the shoots are grayish-green leaf blades of elongated outlines. The surface of the leaf is leathery and it reaches 10 cm in length. In summer, many colors of red, pink or white color appear, they reach 4–6 cm in diameter. Inflorescences in the form of shields are collected from them.
- Adenium multiflorum (Adenium multiflorum). Its homeland is considered the territories of Zambia, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, regions of southern Africa and Swaziland. Prefers sandy soils, rocky, dry woodland or brackish substrates. The flowering process takes place in the winter. The color of the buds is glossy snow-white, pink, closely red, red, white-red. It is a shrub with thick stems or a small tree from half a meter to 3 meter high. It is similar in shape to a baobab. This variety has the same caudex at the base of the trunk, half submerged in the ground (the collected liquid in which helps to survive periods of drought). The stems originate from the rhizome, which is located below the soil surface. Their bark is glossy, painted in gray-brown tones, and contains a poisonous watery latex inside. This species is called "impala lily" and it is in the Red Book of the countries in which it grows.
- Adenium boehmianum (Adenium boehmianum). The sap of this variety is terribly bitter and is the only type used by the Bushmen to obtain the poison that is used to lubricate arrows when hunting animals. In nature, its height is from 2 meters, and the thickness of the trunk reaches half a meter. Caudex may disappear over time. Described in 1888 by Hans Schinz. The plant has a shrubby form of growth, with strong branching, rather high. The bark of the branches is silvery. Leaves of a pale grayish-green tint, 12 cm long, have an extension towards the end. Blooms from late summer to winter. Flower petals with a lilac-pinkish tone or bluish-white. There is a purple pharynx and a tubular corolla. The size of flowers in diameter can reach 5 cm.
How to transplant and prune adenium yourself, see here:
