Serissa: rules for growing and reproduction in rooms

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Serissa: rules for growing and reproduction in rooms
Serissa: rules for growing and reproduction in rooms
Anonim

Distinctive features of serissa, tips for growing a plant in a room, breeding steps, difficulties in cultivation, facts to note. Serissa is a multitype representative of the flora, which in its genus contains all one representative, attributed to the family Rubiaceae. The aforementioned single representative is called Serissa japonica or Smelly Serissa. As can be seen from the species name, this plant grows naturally in Indochina and China, and then was introduced (accidentally or deliberately transferred from its natural growing area) to Japan, to the island lands of Kyushu.

Serissa is a shrub with an evergreen, non-falling deciduous crown, which in nature can reach a height of 1 m by shoots, but in room conditions the parameters rarely exceed 60 cm. The bark of the branches is smooth and gray in color, it acquires a lighter shade over time and may flake off in rather long stripes. The wood of the plant has an unpleasant odor, which gave the second specific name, but you can hear how people call it "stinky bonsai". Usually this smelly "scent" is heard if the trunk or branches of the serissa are damaged. The trunk of this representative of the flora is distinguished by a strong curvature. Shoots are branched and have short internodes. A beautiful fluffy crown is formed through the branches. But then the question is: Why is this shrub often called a tree? Everything is explained by the unusual similarity of the form of the Japanese beauty with a real adult tree plant, only of very small sizes.

The leaf plates on the branches grow in opposite order, with each other pair of leaves being at right angles to the previous one. The shape of the leaves is oblong-oval or ovate-lanceolate. The length of the leaf reaches 15–17 mm with a width of about 6–8 mm, there are practically no petioles, the foliage is almost sessile. The tops of the leaves are pointed, the edge is solid. Stipules have scaly outlines. The leaves of the serissa are painted in a dark green color, the surface of the foliage is leathery, dense.

During flowering, the whole tree becomes, as if covered with small graceful stars, which gave rise to the name of the serissa "the tree of a thousand stars." The flowers are not large in size, their petals take on a snow-white color, although the buds flaunt a pinkish tint. The shape of the opened bud is really star-shaped. The buds are located in the axils of the leaves, singly, devoid of pedicels, mainly at the tops of the shoots. However, due to the fact that the length of the shoots is very short, it seems that the buds sit throughout the entire branch.

The corolla of the flower is in the form of a tube formed by 4–6 petals, when the opening does not exceed 1 cm in diameter. The petals are very original in shape, each of them at the top has the shape of a trident, in which the denticles located on the sides are small and rounded, and the central tooth is much larger in size and with a triangular point at the apex. The flowering process takes a rather long period - from late spring to September, but if the conditions are comfortable, then the flowers can open throughout the year, justifying the elegant name.

When growing serissa in rooms, it should be remembered that this plant is quite capricious and, having acquired it due to highly decorative flowering, an inexperienced owner does not know how to provide those care rules that will make the “tree of a thousand stars” comfortable to exist. And also begins to embarrass an unpleasant aroma if a person only touches the bark during the care procedures. But since with its outlines the serissa resembles a miniature tree, it is recommended to use it when grown using the bonsai technique. Connoisseurs of such cultivation are also attracted by the intricate look of the roots, which are located on the surface of the soil.

The growth rate of the “tree of a thousand stars” is average, while the annual growth can be 5–10 cm. Therefore, with well-regulated care, the plant will delight the owner from five to fifty years.

To date, through the efforts of breeders, varieties of serissa have been obtained, which also differ in the decorative color of the leaves, among them they are distinguished with a thin whitish stripe along the edge of the leaf plate, painted in a dark green color. This variety is called Variegata. A variety such as Pink Snow Rose has foliage not only with variegated decoration (like the previous plant), but during flowering, flowers that do not turn white, but remain pink in color, open. We can mention the varietal varieties, differing in the golden color of the foliage and double-shaped flowers.

Serissa care for indoor cultivation

Serissa in a pot
Serissa in a pot
  1. Lighting and location selection. Most of all, the "tree of a thousand stars" is suitable for a well-lit place, but devoid of direct sunlight. This level and quality of lighting can be provided to a plant if a pot with it is installed on the window sills of windows facing the east or west side of the world. If the serissa will stand in the southern location, then its foliage will quickly turn yellow, which will reduce the decorative effect of the tree. Then it is recommended to curtain the window from the direct rays of the sun, especially in the summer at noon hours. To do this, use curtains made of translucent materials or curtains made of gauze fabric (gauze can be purchased at the pharmacy and such curtains can be made). Often, tracing paper is attached to the window glass itself - translucent paper, which can slightly reduce the level of UV radiation on the plant. You should not put a pot with a tree on the north side, as the foliage will begin to shrink, the distance between the nodes will lengthen, and flowering will not occur. However, it should be noted that with the arrival of a darker season, the serissa may begin to lose foliage or subsequently flowering will not occur due to the shortening of daylight hours, even if the pot is at the recommended location. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out constant illumination using phytolamps. It is not necessary to often move the plant from place to place, as the "tree of a thousand stars" instantly reacts to changes in the level of illumination and its direction. If this rule is violated, then, as a result, foliage, buds and already blossoming flowers are discarded. With the arrival of summer time, you can take the pot with the plant out into the fresh air (balcony, terrace or garden, placing it under the crowns of deciduous trees), but take care of the necessary shading.
  2. Content temperature serissa should be 18-30 degrees in the summer, but with the arrival of autumn it is recommended to start reducing the thermometer to the range of 14-15 units. The main thing is to make sure that the thermometer does not drop below 12 degrees. Although flower growers argue that a “tree of a thousand stars” can, for a short time, without damage to itself, endure a decrease in heat to -5 degrees below zero, but it is better not to experiment this way, as foliage may begin to drop and the serissa will die. When grown in room conditions, it is recommended to carry out regular ventilation, since the plant suffers from stagnant air, but the pot with this Japanese bonsai is placed so as to protect it from the action of a draft.
  3. Air humidity. For comfortable growing of this beauty with numerous star flowers, it is recommended to maintain indoor humidity levels of about 50%. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to spray the deciduous mass twice a day, but so that the operation falls on the morning or evening hours. This is necessary so that drops under the sun's rays do not lead to burns, and by noon the moisture will have time to dry. Also, to increase the level of humidity, you can put household steam generators or air humidifiers next to the pot. Some flower growers recommend installing the flowerpot with the plant itself in a deep container (pallet, tray), at the bottom of which a small layer of expanded clay, pebbles, chipped bricks or clay shards is laid. Then a little water is poured there, but it is monitored so that the bottom of the pot does not touch it. Such a measure will not only help saturate the air with evaporated moisture, but will also help to prevent the root system from becoming overmoistened.
  4. Watering the serissa. In spring and summer, humidification should be regular, with a frequency of every 3-4 days. In this case, it is allowed that between waterings the soil dries out only 1.5 cm in depth. With the arrival of autumn, it is recommended to reduce watering, bringing them to once a week. The substrate should never dry out even in the cold season, but it is also impossible to fill in and allow the soil to become waterlogged. But if this rule is violated and the soil becomes too wet at low temperatures, then rotting of the root system will inevitably begin. For the "tree of a thousand stars", which is grown using bonsai technology, it is recommended to carry out the so-called bottom watering. In this case, the pot with the plant is placed in a basin of water and when 15–20 minutes have elapsed, they take it out from there, let the rest of the water drain and put it in its original place. You can also pour water into a pot holder, and when the root system is saturated with moisture, the remaining liquid is drained. For watering serissa, it is recommended to use only soft water with room heat values. To do this, you can collect rainwater, river water or drown snow in winter. Then the liquid is heated to a temperature of 20-24 degrees, and it is ready for watering. However, there is not always confidence in the purity of such water, so you can take tap water, pass it through a filter, then boil for half an hour and leave to settle for several days. During this time, all calcareous compounds will precipitate. When a couple of days have passed, the water is drained, trying not to capture what is left on the bottom of the container. But when there is no time to prepare the liquid for watering the "tree of a thousand stars" for so long, experienced flower growers recommend using distilled water.
  5. Fertilizers for a plant, they are introduced from the beginning of spring to September, since it is during this period that its growth is activated. Liquid preparations are used once a month. Serissa reacts well to organic fertilizers. If a full mineral complex is used, then the dosage indicated by the manufacturer is halved. Then such a preparation can be diluted in water for irrigation and fed to the “tree of a thousand stars”. Often, preparations for Saintpaulias, which are shaped like "sticks", are used as top dressing. When winter comes, the plant does not need feeding. However, if the cultivation in the cold season is carried out with additional illumination with special lamps and the tree continues to grow and release buds, then it is recommended to apply fertilizers with the above regularity and quantity.
  6. Transfer and composition of the recommended soil. When two years have passed since the next change of the serissa pot, a new transplant can be carried out. Usually such an operation is planned by March-April. The plant needs to be removed from the pot and the root system should be partially trimmed - this is a common practice when growing representatives of the flora using the bonsai technique. The pot can not be taken very deep, as the roots are located at the "tree of a thousand stars" superficially. A drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the new pot, which can be medium-sized expanded clay, pebbles or clay (ceramic) shards. Often, flower growers even use chipped bricks, which are pre-sifted from dust. In the new container, it is necessary that small holes be made in the bottom, which will facilitate the outflow of moisture that has not been absorbed by the root system of the serissa. After the plant is transplanted, it is kept in the shade for some period so that adaptation takes place, and the tree shows signs of rooting. Of the ready-made soil compositions, those whose acidity indicators are in the pH range of 4, 5-5, 5. If the substrate is mixed independently, then equal parts of sod and humus soil, river sand, leafy soil are used for it (it can be collected in the forest or a park area from under birches or other deciduous trees, while taking some rotted leaves) and peat. You can also use clay-sod soil, peat soil and coarse sand (in a ratio of 1: 1: 2).
  7. Features of serissa care. In order to successfully form fruits in the conditions of the rooms, it is recommended to keep the "tree of a thousand stars" in winter at low heat indicators. With the arrival of spring, it is useful to shorten weak or diseased shoots, and also, so that branching takes place more intensively, the tops of young branches should be pinched. When the shoots growing on the sides dry out, they are removed with scissors. When the owner of the serissa wants to form it in the form of a tree, it is recommended to cut off the branches growing in the lower part of the trunk. Often, a different formation strategy is used: only young branches are pruned annually, after the flowering process is completed. At the same time, at least 4–6 leaf plates are left intact, or the shortening touches by 2–4 leaves after transplantation.

Reproduction of serissa at home

Serissa stem
Serissa stem

The plant is propagated by cuttings. The workpieces are cut from semi-lignified shoots, the length of the cuttings is about 10 cm, with 2-3 nodes. Cuttings are planted in pots filled with a peat-sand mixture (you can mix peat with perlite). Then the soil is moistened, and the cuttings are covered with a plastic bag or placed under a glass vessel. Before planting, you can use heteroauxin or Kornevin (root formation stimulants). For successful rooting, bottom heating of the soil is used, while the temperature should be about 25 degrees. Caring for cuttings consists in watering when the soil dries up and daily airing to remove condensation. When the cuttings are rooted, they are transplanted into separate pots with more suitable soil.

Difficulties arising from indoor growing serissa

Serissa leaves
Serissa leaves

It can be affected by mealybugs, aphids, scale insects or spider mites - they are treated with insecticides. Heavy soil or flooding will provoke root rot. Fungicide treatment and transplantation are recommended.

In low light, there will be no flowering. Filling the soil leads to yellowing of foliage, its rotting and death.

Facts to note about the serissa

Serissa in room conditions
Serissa in room conditions

Serissa is mainly used for growing as a bonsai, if you put this plant in your study or in the living room. It is also not bad to phytodecorate bedrooms, offices or winter gardens with it; it looks good in the hall or foyer. The plant is distinguished by its graceful and graceful outlines, while the tree of "a thousand stars" is capable of "pushing" the boundaries and tends to enhance the feeling of free space. It is because of its flowers that serissa looks like a unique star, even when grown in small spaces.

Among other things, the plant is distinguished by the presence of medicinal properties. Traditional healers recommend using the stems and leaves for skin inflammations, as well as to heal carbuncles. Eastern healers, with the help of serissa, made preparations for the treatment of oncological diseases.

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