Types of philodendron and rules for caring for him

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Types of philodendron and rules for caring for him
Types of philodendron and rules for caring for him
Anonim

Philodendron signs, tips for growing indoors, choosing soil and fertilizers, reproduction, problems with cultivation, interesting facts, species. Philodendron (Philodendron) is part of the numerous genus of evergreen plants that belong to the Aroid family (Araceae). If you believe the research of the Missouri Botanical Garden, then about 900 species of representatives of the green world of the planet are ranked there. This genus is in second place in terms of the number of plants that it includes from the entire variety of aroids. There are species that until now modern science taxonometry has not yet described. The plant is usually grown both in greenhouses and indoors. The exotic name owes its name to the fusion of two Greek words "phileo", meaning love and "dendron" - a tree, this is due to the fact that the philodendron is very fond of settling on the trunks or branches of large trees. The homeland of this plant is considered to be the regions of tropical America and it prefers to settle in the humid forests of those places and to Mexico itself. It can be seen on coastal areas near rivers and swamps, along the edges of roadsides, or where exposed rocks show through.

Philodendron is a perennial with evergreen foliage. The growth forms of this representative of the aroid family are very diverse, which favorably distinguishes it from other genera. As mentioned above, it can be an epiphyte (settle on trees and anchor there with the help of its atmospheric roots), semi-epiphytes, or as they are also called hemiepiphytes - they begin their growth in the place where the seed is brought by the wind, water, birds or animals. Most often, this can be the soil surface in the lower layer of the forest - this is the primary type of hemiepiphytes. When the plant grows and has a sufficient number of root shoots and the philodendron begins to receive useful substances from the air with the help of a developed root system, then it begins its movement with the same roots-suction cups on the trunks or branches of nearby trees. In this case, the underground roots die off, and the plant lives only using aerial root shoots.

The most interesting thing is that when searching for a suitable tree for its future habitat, the philodendron uses the shadow cast by the tree trunk as a guide. The vine will lengthen its internodes until it reaches the selected tree and "climbs" up it. This amazing property is called scototropism. At the same time, when the philodendron satisfies the place for its growth, it will become a phototropic, which means that its internodes will become shorter in length and thicken significantly over time, because there is no need to “travel” anymore. The seeds that appear in such plants will generally already grow on trees, saving the vine from unnecessary movements in search of a host (the second type of hemiepiphyte).

The root processes of the philodendron are both atmospheric and underground. The roots that are above the ground can be varied in both size and shape. Their number and size directly depend on the support they find. The stem of this exotic is fleshy and lignified over time at the base. Until now, scientists cannot understand the structure of the shoot of this plant. The development of leaf blades proceeds in a certain sequence: first, a scale develops, followed by a leaf on an elongated petiole. The rudimentary inflorescence grows inside an ordinary leaf, but a lateral bud is located in the scaly axil. The main shoot of the philodendron usually ends with an inflorescence, but where the part of the stem, on which ordinary leaves and scaly leaves grow, originates is unknown. This problem has not been resolved in any way for more than a century and a half.

The scale leaves are called cataphylls, they are necessary to protect the vegetative buds of the plant. They are painted in green shades, are similar in shape to a leaf and have a hard surface, while they perform protective functions. They are divided into deciduous and permanent types. Ordinary leaves, which are attached to the petiole, are arranged alternately on the stem. The petioles have sheaths. The length of the leaf plate can be up to 2 meters. But in many varieties, the leaf sizes are not so impressive, they rarely exceed 75 cm in length, there are varieties in which the leaf measures only 11 cm, but the widest they are in the Philodendron gigas variety - as much as 90 cm.

The leaf shape is also quite diverse: elliptical, arrow-shaped, solid, double and pinnately dissected. The most interesting thing is that on the same plant there can be leaf plates of different shapes. In seedlings, the leaves take the shape of a heart. That is, as they grow older, the shape of the leaves can change, this feature is called morphogenesis.

Flowering occurs in the form of a cob-shaped inflorescence with a blanket leaf that surrounds the cob like a hood. At the same time, up to 11 such inflorescence cobs can grow on a plant. They gather in groups and are enclosed in bracts, which have a leathery surface of a whitish or pinkish hue. They bear the names of bracteols or profiles. After flowering ends, they fall off. The inflorescences are always located upright, regardless of how the stem grows. Their length can vary from 1 to 25 cm.

After flowering, fruits ripen in the form of berries. They appear in a plant at different times and the period of full maturation sometimes lasts from several weeks to a year. Fruits are painted in whitish, whitish-green or yellowish shades. These berries contain small seeds.

The plant first appeared before scientists as a herbarium, which was collected by Georg Marggraf, who lived in the 17th century, or rather, this event took place in 1644. And only officially in the 19th century, Heinrich Wilhelm Schott described the variety of philodendrons.

Indoor Philodendron Growing Tips

Young sprout of philodendron
Young sprout of philodendron
  • Lighting. The plant can grow in completely artificial light, likes partial shade or full shade, and will suffer from sunlight. Afraid of drafts, you can't take it outside. North-facing windows will do, possibly an east or west location.
  • Content temperature. Philodendron loves room heat indicators - 20-25 degrees. If the thermometer creeps up, then spraying is carried out. In winter, you can reduce the heat indicators to 15-16 degrees, while the humidity and watering are reduced.
  • Air humidity. He loves high levels of humidity in the air, it is useful to spray or wash under a warm shower, especially if wintering takes place with increased heat indicators. Replacing spraying with watering is not recommended.
  • Watering the philodendron. As soon as the top layer of the soil dries up in the pot, this is a sign for moisture, especially in the spring and summer months. Watering should be abundant with well-settled water, free from impurities and salts. If the water flows into the container under the pot, then it must be drained immediately, otherwise its stagnation will lead to decay of the plant roots.
  • Fertilization. During the period of the onset of activity and until the very cold weather, it is necessary to feed with complex mineral fertilizers for decorative leafy plants grown indoors. The regularity of adding once every 14 days. With cold wintering, feeding is stopped, but if the philodendron is kept warm, then the plant is fertilized once a month.
  • Transplant and soil selection. For young philodendrons, it is necessary to change the pot and soil annually with the arrival of spring. When the bush grows up, this operation is carried out only once every 2-3 years. The pot is taken 3-5 cm larger than the previous one. If the plant grows in a tub, then it is necessary to change only 4–5 cm of soil from above. If the type of philodendron is curly, then it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots after transplantation, which will help them to branch well in the future.

The soil is taken with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, pH 5, 5–7. The soil for the plant is selected light, loose, coarse-grained and fertile. You can use purchased mixtures for decorative leafy plants, but many growers make up the substrate on their own:

  • humus earth, sod, peat soil, river sand (in proportions 2: 1: 1: 0, 5);
  • sod soil, leafy, coarse-grained sand or perlite (in a ratio of 1: 3: 1);
  • charcoal, peat, pine bark, sphagnum moss, sand (perlite), leaf (peat) humus (all components in one part, half of sand).

Philodendron self-propagation tips

Philodendron leaves
Philodendron leaves

You can get a new beautiful bush with decorative leaves by cuttings, planting part of the trunk, air layers, pieces of rhizome or planting seeds.

With the arrival of spring, you can cut cuttings from the tops of the shoots, they must have at least 1-2 internodes. Landing is carried out in moistened sand. The temperature is maintained within 20-25 degrees. For better rooting, it is necessary to create conditions for a mini-greenhouse - wrap the plants with plastic wrap or put them under a glass jar (you can cut off a plastic bottle). The cuttings should be ventilated daily, and the sand is moistened as it dries. As soon as the cuttings take root, they need to be planted in separate pots with a diameter of up to 9-11 cm and a suitable soil for further growth.

In order to propagate a philodendron with a piece of stem, it is necessary to prepare a box with a sandy-peat substrate. On its surface, parts of the lignified trunk of the plant are laid, but in such a way that the bud ("eye") is on top. Further, it is required to sprinkle it a little with soil. Seedlings also require constant conditions of heat and humidity, so they are covered with glass or polyethylene. It is necessary to regularly ventilate and moisten the soil, and as soon as sprouts appear on the seedling, you can carefully divide the pieces and plant them in separate containers.

Problems in the cultivation of philodendron

Yellowed philodendron leaf
Yellowed philodendron leaf

If the plant began to be affected by pests or diseases, it means that the conditions of detention were violated. Usually, the following harmful insects that harm the philodendron are isolated: spider mites, scale insects, thrips. They are clearly visible on both sides of the plate. Due to the fact that pests suck out the vital juices from the plant, piercing the surface of the leaves, they turn yellow, deform and fall off, and new ones grow already of irregular shape. The plant must be isolated from the rest of the healthy and processed. To do this, you can manually remove insects and their eggs with a cotton swab dipped in an oil, soap or alcohol solution. You can shower by washing the leaves and shoots with a stream of water at room temperature. It is also recommended to spray with systemic insecticides (for example, Aktellik, Karbofos or Aktara). To consolidate the effect, the treatment is repeated after 10-14 days.

Of the problems that philodendron growers face, there are:

  • in dry air, the tips of the leaves turn brown, dry and fall off;
  • drops on the tips of the leaves indicate too wet soil and high air humidity;
  • with an excess of illumination, the leaf plates turn pale;
  • a decrease in leaf size indicates a lack of lighting;
  • the root system begins to rot when the room is too cold and the soil is waterlogged;
  • with a sunburn, the color of the leaf plate turns pale, and it becomes covered with yellow spots;
  • yellowing of the entire surface indicates that the soil is flooded with water.

Interesting Philodendron Facts

Philodendron in a flowerpot
Philodendron in a flowerpot

The stems, leaves and inflorescences of the philodendron contain milky juice, which contains rubber, this plant is somewhat reminiscent of a monster. The color of this solution is very varied, it can be yellowish, red or orange, completely devoid of color. Upon contact with the air, the juice changes its color to brown. The calcium oxalate contained in the fruits does not interfere with their consumption by the local population, although this substance can provoke stomatitis, burning of the tongue or even dumbness. Baskets are woven from root shoots or ropes are made. Philodendron rubber is used as a sealant for blowguns and also as a poison to kill fish. Many varieties are used by local healers for treatment as an antiseptic. The plant is an excellent barometer, its leaf plates are covered with droplets of moisture when precipitation is due.

Philodendron species

Philodendron in a pot
Philodendron in a pot

Here are only the most popular species of this plant, since there are a lot of them in nature.

  1. Philodendron golden black (Philodendron melanochrysum andreanum). This plant is highly decorative due to the ambiguity of leafy forms growing on one bush. This property is called heterophilia - variegation. Young leaves are only 5-7 cm long, and they are heart-shaped, painted in copper-red tones. When the leaf grows, its length can vary from 40 to 80 cm, the shape becomes more elongated, the color changes to green with a bronze sheen, in the presence of whitish veins and a light edge along the edge of the plate. In indoor conditions, the variety is very picky about air humidity.
  2. Philodendron brilliant (Philodendron micans). It is a compact liana-like plant with thin stems and leafy plates reaching 10 cm in length. The surface of the leaf is velvety. When the leaf is young, it is painted in red tones, with age, the color changes to brown-green. It attracts flower growers with its unpretentiousness.
  3. Philodendron warty (Philodendron verrucosum). This variety is very much loved by flower growers because of its heart-shaped leaf plates and velvety surface. They are measured in length of 15–20 cm with a width of 10 cm. Leaves are placed on petioles, which are completely covered with bristles in the form of warts. When caring for this plant, it is required to maintain high air humidity.
  4. Guitar Philodendron (Philodendron bippenifolium). The name of the plant already speaks of the shape of its leaves, the length is measured 40-50 cm. Often used by breeders to breed new hybrids, unpretentious to the conditions of detention.
  5. Philodendron bipinnatifidum - very rare when grown in culture. But this plant is probably the largest of all species, it often has a tree-like growth. The trunk is smooth, decorated with traces of fallen leaves. The leaves are in the shape of arrows, twice pinnately dissected. The number of beats is from 1 to 4 units. Their sizes vary from 60 to 90 cm, their surface is leathery, emerald in color with a grayish tint. In adult specimens, the trunk is thick and contains a large number of leaves. The ear-shaped inflorescence reaches 16-18 cm in length and is shaded with a purple color on the outside, and whitish on the inside.
  6. Philodendron selloum. A fairly common plant, which is an evergreen perennial of a liana-like form of growth. Leaves measure 60–90 cm in length. They have a deeply cut surface plate, there can be up to 10 or more parts-shares, their shape is lobed. The edge of the leaf is curly. Plant height is about one and a half meters.

For more information on the philodendron, see this video:

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