Growing rosemary at home

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Growing rosemary at home
Growing rosemary at home
Anonim

Description of rosemary, tips for breeding in an apartment, choosing a place for a plant, breeding methods and dealing with possible breeding problems. Rosemary (Rosmarinus). The main homeland of growth is the warm Mediterranean coast, where it is found as a wild plant, but its varieties are successfully grown indoors. Rosemary, like many fragrant herbs, is ranked among the Lamiaceae species. It got its name from the ancient inhabitants of Greece and Rome, as they believed that the shade of the petals of their flowers, rosemary resembles sea foam that splashed on plants growing in coastal areas. Also, rosemary was considered one of the signs of love, and in general, it has been widely used in medicine and cosmetology since the XIV century. Due to the strong smell of rosemary, essential oil was extracted and used in the manufacture of perfumery. At the beginning of the 19th century, it was cultivated in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden.

Rosemary takes the form of a shrub or semi-shrub, with leaves that do not change their color, is a perennial and has a characteristic foliage in the form of elongated needles (they can reach up to 4 cm in length), but it is not considered a coniferous plant. These leafy needles are slightly curled downward and have a light fluffy bloom on the outside. In natural nature, rosemary can extend its stems, which also have a slight pubescence, to a height of 1.5 m. The root system is powerful and branched, going very deep underground (it can reach 4 m depth). Differs in abundant branching of shoots, completely covered with needle-leaves, which are located very close to each other.

Rosemary blooms can be seen starting on warm days of the year. The flowers are collected in inflorescences and differ depending on the variety in the tones of the petals: light blue, lilac, pale crimson or white. The flower consists of 4 petals, which are parallel in pairs. The upper petal is bent up and back, in front of it are brown stamens on long pistils. The two middle petals are of the same shape, slightly spread apart and parallel to the ground. The last, lower petal, the largest, curved with a scoop, has a light stripe along its entire length. After flowering, fruits appear in the form of a brownish miniature nut (seed), which fully ripen by the beginning of autumn. The entire surface of the seed is dotted with longitudinal grooves.

Types of indoor rosemary

The color of officinalis rosemary
The color of officinalis rosemary

Basically, in apartment conditions, he breeds medicinal rosemary and prostrate rosemary.

  1. Medicinal rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) native to the western coastal areas of the Mediterranean. Also, the plant can be found in the countries of Asia Minor and in the south of the North American continent, on the southern coast of Crimea, the Black Sea coasts of Georgia. The plant has the shape of a shrub that can grow with stems up to one and a half meters in height. The foliage is very abundant and completely covers the shoots. The color of old stems is a lead shade, the bark on which is slightly exfoliated, and the young shoots have a light gray tint and a little down. The leaves are in the shape of flat needles that are rough to the touch. The "needles" are located opposite each other, and can reach up to 3.5 cm in length and a maximum of 4 mm in width. The edges of these needle-leaves are slightly bent towards the bottom, the upper side can take on light malachite or dark emerald shades, and the lower one is whitish and dull. If the needles are crumpled, then a characteristic pleasant aroma is heard. Inflorescences are in the form of panicles, in which small flowers are collected, the petals of which are distinguished by light or dark lilac shades. On the shores of the Black Sea, medicinal rosemary begins to bloom in late winter, early spring, but plants bloom most abundantly by the end of spring days, and this process lasts no longer than a month. After flowering, rosemary bears fruit with dark brown seeds. This variety can perfectly tolerate extreme heat and lack of precipitation, but when frosts down to -7 degrees, young shoots can freeze. But if the plants are old enough and grow in heaps, then they can survive up to -12 degrees of frost.
  2. Rosemary open (Rosmarinus Prostatus group). This variety stretches out stems in the form of a shrub, and can reach half a meter in height, its shoots are very elongated and grow in width - it can reach up to one and a half meters in diameter. Leaves-needles are rough to the touch, have a rich malachite color, and are distinguished by a non-shiny surface. Pale blue flowers grow from axillary leaf buds. It is actively used for cosmetic purposes and in cooking. Its varieties are: creeping, Corsican and lavender.
  3. Separate subspecies Rosmarinus Prostratus repens has a very small height (up to 15 cm) and curly shoots that can cling to nearby plants or natural formations. The subspecies "Severn Sea" and "Tuscan Blue" also have a short stem, which can reach a maximum of half a meter in height. In flower shops, there is a variety of Rosmarinus lavandulaceus, which is a shrub with rich emerald needle leaves and sky flowers, but this variety is very slow in growth.

Rosemary Care Tips

Rosemary in a flowerpot
Rosemary in a flowerpot

Lighting

In order to grow rosemary indoors, you do not need to create special conditions, but still, for the plant, it is preferable to have windows that give a lot of lighting and the ability to bask in bright sunlight. Naturally, south-facing windows will do. If the rosemary does not receive enough ultraviolet light, then its stems will become thinner and become very fragile, and the growth rate will be very slow. And soon it threatens with the complete dumping of the leaf mass.

Rosemary is very fond of fresh air and with the arrival of warm days it is advisable to rearrange it to an open place - a balcony or terrace, but remember that early frosts are detrimental to the plant. If it is not possible to change the location of the pot, then frequent airing of the room in which the rosemary is located is recommended, but it is better not to arrange drafts. In the autumn and winter months, supplementary lighting with special lamps is very necessary for the plant. If the rosemary stays in the sun for a long time, then its leaves and stems will have a great aroma.

Content temperature

Rosemary is a very thermophilic plant, but it can also tolerate minor frosts. But for healthy growth in apartment conditions, stable warm temperatures are needed. Most of all, rosemary is damaged by differences between night and day heat values. At freezing temperatures, if the plant has been outdoors, it must be moved indoors. To achieve flowering rosemary in the next season, it is necessary to winterize it with cool temperatures, but with very good lighting.

Air humidity

Since the birthplace of rosemary is coastal areas, it is natural that the plant simply needs an increased moisture content in the air. Rosemary loves spraying very much, but when wintering time comes and if it does not take place in a cool room, but where there are central heating batteries, then spraying is performed several times a day. Watering rosemary. Since rosemary grows on slopes flooded with sunlight, it is easier to tolerate mild drought than excessive soil moisture. If there is a short dry time, rosemary will react with yellowing of the needle leaves, but this can be easily corrected by watering it a little. If there is a lot of moisture in the earthen coma, then the root system of the plant immediately begins to rot. As the heat approaches, the rosemary needs to be watered very often, but it is also necessary to constantly monitor so that the water does not stagnate in the sump. During wintering, watering should be regular, but almost halved. Watering increases again with increasing air temperature, but this should be done gradually.

Top dressing rosemary

As soon as the rosemary begins to grow rapidly, it is necessary to begin to fertilize with fertilizers. Every two weeks it is required to fertilize rosemary with a complex of minerals with organic matter. Also, in order to maintain rosemary, don't forget about calcium. You can add a little soda to the water for irrigation - 1/3 teaspoon of baking soda for 1 liter of water.

Choosing a soil and pot for rosemary. Since the root system of rosemary is very branchy and growing rapidly, the pot must be selected accordingly. Pots are best selected from natural materials - clay, ceramic, terracotta. Drainage in the pot must be mandatory - this will protect the roots from rotting. A sufficient layer of fine expanded clay, pebbles or crushed brick is laid on the bottom.

It is better to choose light soil - crumbly, dryish, with good air and moisture permeability. Soils containing crushed stone and sand may also be suitable. The acidity of the substrate should be very low or normal. You can plant rosemary in purchased peat land. You can make up the soil mixture yourself, taking two parts of the horse and deciduous soil, and one part of the compost, sand and peat.

Some additional tips

In order to use rosemary for its intended purpose, it is necessary to correctly harvest its individual parts. For the preparation of seasonings, young stems that are not yet lignified and have pubescence, along with needle leaves and flowers, will fit. Pruning is performed during the period of rapid spring growth of the plant.

In order to form a beautiful crown of the bush, when pruning, it is necessary to leave on the stem only a few areas between adjacent nodes. Stems are selected that have grown from the last season. If the plant has become old enough and its stems have become ugly bare, then you need to remove those shoots that are located above the surface of the earth. This operation is performed in late winter or early spring. This kind of rejuvenation is required every 7 years.

Reproduction of rosemary indoors

Transplanting rosemary cuttings
Transplanting rosemary cuttings

The most popular breeding methods for rosemary are cuttings and seed planting.

For cutting cuttings, choose stems that are sufficiently covered with bark and at least 10 cm long. Twigs are being cut by the end of spring. The chopped shoots are cleaned from the lower leaves-needles and planted in the prepared substrate - one part each of leafy soil, sphagnum moss and two parts of coarse sand. The substrate is slightly moistened and twigs are planted. It is important that the substrate is not too wet, otherwise the roots of the cuttings will not start up. Sometimes the cuttings are placed in a glass of water made of dark glass, where several tablets of activated carbon are added for disinfection. A glass or pot with cuttings is placed in a place with good lighting, but without bright sunlight. It is best to arrange the conditions of a mini greenhouse by covering the container with twigs with a plastic bag with several holes for ventilation. It is important that the temperature is constant. But the problem is that with an excess of moisture, the cuttings die before they can take root. After 3 weeks, the roots appear and the cuttings can be planted in separate pots.

The method of propagation by seed material presents some difficulty, which is associated with the poor germination of rosemary. March or September days are suitable to start planting seeds. Seed material must be soaked, you can wrap them in wet gauze and leave for a couple of days. In a container with soil, the seeds are simply scattered upward and are not covered with a substrate. The substrate is made from upland soil, humus, sand and peat. Everything is taken in equal parts, only horse 2 parts. To create greenhouse conditions, a plastic bag is put on the container or covered with a piece of glass. If a bag is used, then several holes are made in it, if glass is used, then you will have to ventilate the container. The soil in the container must be constantly moistened by spraying, but it is important not to overmoisten the substrate, otherwise the seeds can rot. After a month, the first seedlings appear. When the height of the sprouts becomes at least 10 cm and 2-3 leaves appear on them, then weak plants can be transplanted into another container, where they can catch up with the rest. Sprouts that differ in size can be planted in separate pots for permanent cultivation.

Rosemary pests and growing difficulties

Rosemary stalks on the table
Rosemary stalks on the table

Although rosemary seems to be quite resistant to harmful insects and diseases, it does have some pests: spider mites, whiteflies, and aphids. To combat them, you can arrange a soapy wash for the plant - dilute 50 grams of finely grated laundry soap in 1 liter of water. You can wash each leaf separately or make a “soap shower”. If these methods do not help, then it is necessary to spray the rosemary with insecticides. It is important that these pests do not multiply on the plant, the air humidity should not be too high.

Rosemary can sometimes be affected by powdery mildew, a whitish coating on the leaves. The difficulty is that it is difficult to notice this disease, since the stems have their own light pubescence. If the needle leaves began to change their color, darken and crumble, but there were no violations in the care, then it is necessary to treat with an insecticide. True, after that, it will no longer be possible to use the stems and leaves of rosemary for seasonings.

Here are the secrets to successfully sprouting rosemary from seeds in this video:

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